Page 39 - May 2017 Edition

“You’re the Cream in my Coffee”.
Mmm ...that’s not just a great little saying, but a line from a song written way back in 1928. In those days, coffee was roast- ed, packaged, sold and tast- ed very different ... in fact it had a completely different quality in general. Adding cream or milk was almost
necessary to cover up the bitterness and stale flavors that resulted from coffee that was no longer “fresh” (though the packaging often advertised otherwise).
The range of coffee quality today is still wide, but improving. These days we can easily enjoy our coffee with cream or without and find good results. Regardless of quality, most folks seem to hang in one camp or the other, not usually straying over to the other side. As we’ve explored in previous articles, the subtle tastes of black coffee can be exciting, but it also makes perfect sense that we want to add milk to a beverage that is inherently bitter to varying degrees.
Milk is naturally sweet and viscous, with half & half (creamer) being the best example of this. Milk changes the mouthfeel and texture of the finished drink, creating a cream- ier and richer taste experience. Freshness, pasteurization, homogenization, fat content, health of the cows and so much more affects the quality and taste of the milk. Heating or steaming milk completely changes the chemistry altogether; the milk is subjected to heat which loosens up whey proteins, creating foam and perceived sugars. It is a delicate process. Baristas beware: milk that is steamed beyond 160°F, however, begins to take on a less desirable, sour taste.
Alternative milks are a whole other animal ... they don’t come from one at all! They lack
whey and often are not as ‘creamy,’ resulting in a different taste experience when combined with coffee. More and more nut milk products, however, are becoming available which add ingredients to simulate the rich and creamy mouthfeel of dairy milk. Numerous cafes are serving these specially designed alternative milks, and many are making their own.
“Totally Sweet”. OR “Sweetening the Deal”
Like a little sweetness in your cup? Adding sweeteners like cane sugar or honey is a common way to help turn your coffee beverage from bitter to sweet. It can also calm down coffees with a higher perceived acidity. There are just as many alternative sweet- eners out there as there are milks, maybe more! Each one carries its own flavor, which of course affects the end result in the cup. Dietary or health restrictions aside, I encourage trying something different every now and then, just to see how it changes the taste and experience of your coffee.
“Syrupy Sweetness”
Many people enjoy adding vanilla or other flavored syrups to their lattes, or adding chocolate (Voila ... a mocha!). I will now dare to mention that at this point, we’re not re- ally drinking much coffee at all, but more of a milk cocktail which happens to have some espresso in it. Many cafes are beginning to make their own flavored syrups in an effort to cut down on less than healthy additives and ingredients. I for one am a fan of this, as often times there are very unique flavor combinations that Baristas come up with. Inquire within your local cafe for some of the creative magic that may be happening behind the scenes ...
“Want to Explore Even More ?”
Believe it or not, a tiny pinch of salt does wonders to bring forward savory notes and other subtle complexities that exist in many coffees. In places such as the Himalayas and Ethiopia, adding butter to coffee has long been in practice. A variation of this com- bination has taken on a recent craze known as “Bulletproof Coffee.” Professional Barista competitions showcase perhaps the widest variety of coffee concoctions, enough to perhaps rival the finest and most upscale cocktail bar creations and recipes, from where competitors often seek inspiration and ideas. In future articles, we’ll explore further this world of coffee culture’s ever-deepening creativity ...
| Dylan Jung is the Coffee Director at Indian Gardens Cafe & Market in Oak Creek Canyon. He loves coffee but might love kittens more. You can contact him by writing to dylan@thenoise.us
39 • MAY 2017 | the NOISE arts & news | www.thenoise.us