Page 41 - the NOISE July 2015

verde valley Wine Consortium
symposium:
a glass full indeed
story By
Cody Burkett
On May 30, 2014, the 4th annual Verde Valley Wine Consortium Symposium took place; the third to take place at Yavapai College itself. In essence, the event acts as both a fundraiser fortheSouthwestWineCenter(locatedatYavapaiCollege),aswellasameetingplaceforminds in the wine industry here in the Verde Valley. This year’s theme was the idea of “Taking Root,” with the lectures and round-table discussions focusing mainly on aspects that might aid both current and future growers and winemakers. It was quite an exciting event, though my role was exceedingly minor; I was pouring wine for one of the wineries in attendance in the wine garden, and running around like a madman trying to get all the lectures recorded while I was doing so. (If you saw a whirlwind whizzing past you in a kilt, that was me.)
The lecture series opened with the new president of the Arizona Liquor License and Control Board, John Cocca. He opened up with some particularly interesting statistics; what was most interesting to me to hear as a wine critic is that there are now 93 licensed farm wineries as of 2014. Clearly I have my work cut out for me, as I think I’ve only reviewed wines from a little over half of them. However, one major problem was alluded to: remote tasting rooms must be properly licensed as such by January 1, 2016, and only seven have been issued so far. Cocca urged the wineries to get into compliance, stating that, “My job is to help you succeed.” He commented that he would be happy to work with the various different wineries to get the job done, since he did not run a zero tolerance agency. It was good to get a clear and brief summary of the major changes in the litigation of the subject which has taken place during the last year; liquor laws can be an overwhelmingly byzantine facet of trying to get started in the wine industry here in Arizona.
Another particularly interesting lecture was by consultant Anthony Caetano from Five-Star Consulting services, about grants. There are, as it turns out, a surprising number of grants available for vineyards once you have gotten started, mostly focusing on agricultural studies — a topic perfect for this region and it’s nascent industry that is already filled with experimentation, but finding grants for beginning a vineyard in and of itself may be difficult; the point was raised by participants in this lecture that it may be better to start off with small business grants to get the vineyard started, or raising capital via investors for this process.
On a similar theme, Bill Cook, the owner of Harmony Gardens, led a hands-on grafting workshop that enthralled all those who attended. For those who don’t know, grafting is a major part of vineyard work, involving replacing vines that die off, or even replacing entire fields if hit by disease. The process involves inserting tissues from one plant into those of another so that the two sets of vascular tissues may join together and grow as one unified plant. Gary Kurtz, one of the other speakers, said of Mr. Cook, “He knows what he’s doing. He taught me, and it was good to get a refresher course from a master of the craft.”
Wine tastings in the pavilion began at noon, and lasted until 5PM, but we’ll get to the wines at the end, as there is much to say on the subject; with 17 wineries in attendance, along with several food vendors, suffice to say it was a very good time. That being said, there were several events focused with pairing foods with wine; the first was with executive chef Ron Moler, from Sedona Rouge Resort & Spa, and the second was a chocolate-centered pairing run by Jason Wasser from Xocolatl with the aid of Paula Woolsey. By all accounts, both lectures were a success and highly entertaining and informative. I’ve always felt that pairing wine with food was an important, if not essential aspect, of enjoying wine. While I do believe it is an art in and of itself, I also feel quite strongly that it is an art, like wine tasting, which can be learned. And while all is fine to have a glass of wine on it’s own after dinner (which I do often, indeed, am doing while I write this synopsis: the Alpha from Sand-Reckoner Vineyards), wine can shine most when paired with complimentary dishes.
Among the most interesting aspects of this Symposium were the two round-table discussions featuring the fearless men and women who are forging their paths in the up-and- coming Arizona viticultural industry. The first of these round-table discussions was entitled,
“So you want to grow a vineyard — an emotional reality check.” The panel included such
illus By omar viCtor
illustrious names in the Arizona industry as Nikki Bagley, the director of viticulture at Yavapai College, Sam Pillsbury of Pillsbury Wine Company, and the new Vineyard manager for D.A. Ranch,JeffHendricks. AlsopresentforthisdiscussionwasrepeatsymposiumvisitorJennifer Montgomery, from the Illinois Grape Growers & Vintners Association. The real question, as Nikki pointed out, “is not can you do this, but should you do this?” There are a whole host of hidden costs involved in starting a vineyard, and the cost can sometimes come to at least $22,000 an acre. Key among all of these attributes is making absolutely sure not only that you have the proper soils, but also making sure you have enough water to grow a successful vineyard, especially during hottest parts of the year. Frost is also a major problem for Arizona vines, as is rot during the summer monsoon season, and these attributes need to be taken into consideration. Lastly, as Mr. Pillsbury stressed, do not pick during your second year, “otherwise you will have stunted vines for the rest of their lives.” The point? Viticulture is hard, but intensely rewarding for those who are willing to face the peril of those early five years or so, after which costs begin to drop.
The second round-table discussion was on the topic of integrated pest management in the Arizona viticultural industry. This panel included several vineyard managers and experts in this field. According to the speakers on the panel, IPM can be defined as “the unified strategy of pest management in an environmentally responsible and fiscally conscious manner.” One must first identify the pest, and what counts as acceptable loss. One of the biggest pests which is a major problem here in Arizona is Pierce’s Disease, and this particular bacterial infection was a predominant discussion point during this round-table. As Gary Kurtz described, “It essentially gives your plants a stroke; the plant can not get water to the leaves, and then it dies.”
The most common vector for this particular parasite has not been determined for Arizona, but leafhoppers and an insect known as a sharpshooter are definitely high-profile suspects. Another issue is that the industry here still has not figured out a good cover-crop that will grow between the vines and last until the Monsoon. Cover crops can aid in fixing nitrogen into the soil, attracting beneficial insects, or even help keep noxious weeds at bay. A last major pest that was discussed, Texas Root Rot (which is found in a few places in the Verde Valley) cannot be successfully combated through conventional means.
Meanwhile during these lectures, seventeen different wineries associated with tasting rooms in the Verde Valley were pouring their vintages in the Maybery Pavilion, along with four different food vendors. Michael Pierce, of Saeculum Cellars, released his new 2013 Syrah at the festival, and I assure you it is as delicious as ever, with rich latakia and bright boysenberry notes. Unlike the One Stone, it was not a co-ferment. Dancing Apache Vineyards also released their new 2014 Sweet Willow, a sweet Seyval Blanc done in a late harvest sauternes style, which was filled with notes of creamy rich figs and quince; a future rival for medals with the Sweet Lies from Pillsbury.
Rio Claro Vineyards, located near the confluence of Clear Creak and the Verde Valley, made their first public appearance (that I am aware of), unveiling a white blend, a red blend, and a port style red. Having been unfamiliar with their vintages, I found myself impressed at how clearly these wines imparted the terroir characteristics inherent within Verde Valley wines; that limestone and river water character that speaks of millions of years of history.
The winners for the People’s Choice Awards in the wine completion were: the 2013 Willow White from Dancing Apache Vineyards (which is the best example of Seyval Blanc I’ve ever tasted, bar none.) For reds, the 2012 Petit Sirah from Freitas Vineyards came out on top; a rich Petit Sirah with intense cherry and plum notes, intermingled with black tea leaves. Both of these wines were made with Verde Valley fruit, from right here, versus last year’s winners which were from Willcox grapes. It just goes to show; if you wine a little, you can have a good time.
| Cody Burkett is a kilted whirl of wine knowledge. azwinemonk.com thenoise.us • the NOISE arts & news • JULNYE 2015 • 4217