Page 25 - the NOISE October 2015

with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
Fall is coming, and with the return of pumpkin spice lattes comes the season to put our white wines and rosé back into the cellar, and break out all the reds. Luckily for us, Freitas Vineyards, located in Cottonwood, has just the perfect wine for sitting indoors on an early fall day, when the bite of winter can just barely be felt at the back of your neck: the 2011 Petite Sirah. This tiny vineyard is home to the oldest still-producing vines in the Verde Valley. All of their wines, including this one, are made exclusively from grapes grown on site. It’s a vineyard that has great personal history for me; one of the red blends from Ray Freitas was the first Verde Valley wine I ever tasted ... which lead me to go to seminary in Boston ... which eventually lead me right back around into the wine industry here.
The 2011 Petite Sirah from Freitas is, as you would guess, 100% Petit Sirah. (There’s about fifty ways to spell this grape, I swear.) Known as Durif in its French homeland, this is a particularly interesting grape that is a cross between Syrah and an obscure little grape called Peloursin, which is more commonly found in American vineyards. I should also note that this wine won best red at the Fourth Annual Verde Valley Wine Symposium last May. Made by Darren Evans, this vintage was aged in French oak for 18 months. As to be expected for those who know this grape well, there’s absolutely nothing petite about it at all; it is a dark, bold, inky-colored tannic monster of a wine that sits resolutely in the glass, daring you to drink it.
The nose of this wine has many standard Petit Sirah characteristics. Sharp notes of cassis, black cherry, cedar and blackberry reign triumphant upon first pouring into the glass, intermingling with bright citrus, bergamot, and black tea leaves (oddly reminiscent of a nice cup of Earl Grey, incidentally, which is an impression I usually get with this grape.) Left with some time to open up and mellow out in the glass, the 2011 Petit Sirah opens up into more delicate and subtle aromas: mulberry, milk chocolate, vanilla, the classic Verde Valley allspice terroir note, and even the scent of wind through a pine forest after a rainstorm.
On the palate the 2011 Petite Sirah is earthy, fruity, spicy, and a tannin bomb. Bright cassis and mulberry jam intermingle with plums and blueberries, with sharp notes of cinnamon, black tea, orange zest, and allspice cutting through the fruit. These notes intermingle with earthy notes that are reminiscent of the limestone desert soils here in the Verde Valley; this is a particular note I’ve encountered in many wines grown in the valley basin. After being left to open up, the wine gains notes of cigar tobacco, black pepper, and hints of coffee and chocolate. Tannins are everywhere. It has a full-bodied and jammy mouthfeel, but the finish is relatively short, lasting for only about 14 seconds ... but that’s a pretty standard characteristic for most wines made entirely of this grape.
In terms of pairing, Petit Sirah is a godsend (or gods-send, if you’re polytheistic) for vegetarians and vegans, because of its often intense flavor profile. This vintage I feel would pair well with some eggplant lasagna and grilled mushrooms. For the carnivore, I’d go with some carne asada tacos with salsa of a medium heat and a side of refried beans. At this point in time, I would highly recommend decanting this wine for two hours before serving, or allow it to age in the cellar for an additional five years to achieve its full potential. I feel this wine is masculine, old- fashioned, and a little scholarly. Ink covers his hands and his clothing. Fond of tea, he writes best in the early morning hours near dawn.
The 2011 Petite Sirah can be difficult to track down, since Freitas doesn’t have a tasting room, but I’ve seen it lurking in places like Art of Wine in Sedona and Vino Loco in Flagstaff. However, your best bet is to contact them through their website at freitasvineyard.com if you want a bottle, or visit them when they attend one of our many local wine festivals. It is worth the effort!
| Cody V. Burkett is really fond of tannin bombs like this wine. For more reviews of local wines, visit azwinemonk.com
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october 2015 • 25 OCTOBER 2015 • 41