Page 23 - The NOISE November 2015

with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
Located on the eastern side of Camp Verde is one of the most intriguing vineyards in the Verde Valley. Clear Creek Winery, located right along Highway 260 near the confluence of the Verde River and Clear Creek, focuses exclusively on estate fruit and expressing local terroir. The vineyard itself is one of the most unique in the state, relying on an innovative irrigation system that both fertilizes and waters the vines at the same time. It also employs a unique quadrilateral trellis system. It is among the most immaculate and healthy vineyards I’ve ever seen, and there are some vines here with trunks as thick as my forearm. The tasting room on site is not yet open, but Ignacio Mesa, the winemaker, has been kind enough to let me sample some of his wines, and let me tell you, they’re all fantastic. Clear Creek Vineyards grows an impressive list of grapes, including the classic red Bordeaux varietals. Among the most interesting of his selections currently bottled, in my opinion, is the 2013 Gran Blancas.
The 2013 Gran Blancas is a white blend of 30% Viogner, 25% Riesling, 15% Chardonnay, and 30% Chardonel. Now, the first three grapes in this blend are all pretty familiar to us, but Chardonel was one that was new, even for me. This cool-weather hardy hybrid between Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc (bred originally for conditions in New York) is grown nowhere else in Arizona, and deals well with the late spring frosts that are a serious threat here in the Verde Valley. This wine was aged and fermented in steel tanks, and underwent no malolactic fermentation (this is the process that makes a chardonnay buttery, in case you were wondering). The wine is a cheerful pale gold color.
The nose of this wine is particularly interesting; delicate, yet forceful. Notes of fig and crisp red apple (imparted by the Riesling and Chardonnay), intermingle with lemon and lily (imparted by the Viognier), and a bit of limestone dust (that’s the local terroir). There’s also a slight foxy, cheesy, sort of creamy note, which is clearly imparted by the Chardonel; this sort of aroma is common in hybrid varietals. After the wine’s been open for a while, notes of melon, lavender, and fresh-cut sunflower emerge from the glass. On the palate, this medium-bodied white wine has hints of apple, pear, apricot, as well as thyme, mint, and lemon. As the wine opens up, grassy notes and honeydew melon emerge. The finish of this wine is long, lasting for about 21 seconds, and is filled with mint, citrus, a touch of sea salt, limestone, and a mineral- water style quality that reminds me of the waters of the Verde River — in a very good way; that touch of ancient minerality and the memory of lost seas. As you probably know, I love terroir, and I love wines that reflect the Arizona landscape that I call home. It’s impossible for me to taste this wine and not immediately think of the Verde River which flows through one of Arizona’s most spectacular landscapes.
In terms of pairing, the 2013 Gran Blancas would be well-suited for a fantastic chicken picatta with lemon sauce. A vegan pairing for this wine would be to use tofu, thin-sliced and pressed to create a vegan picatta. It will also be a decent wine to pair with your Thanksgiving dinner (if you seek a red wine pairing for your Thanksgiving feast, go with the 2014 Pinot Noir from Del Rio Springs, which I intend to review next month). I can see how for someone who doesn’t like terroir notes that this vintage might be a little difficult to grok, but I quite enjoy it. This wine, personality-wise, is a late Victorian-era explorer in the deep jungles of South America, searching for the ruins of a lost civilization, trailblazing the path behind him, pith helmet and all.
While the tasting room for Clear Creek isn’t open just yet, you can still arrange an appointment with Ignatio and Sue Mesa. 602/904-0173 mesa@rioclarowines.com, rioclarowines.com
| Cody V. Burkett knows that the night is dark and full of terroir. Need an emergency wine pairing? Email him at Cody.V.Burkett@gmail.com, and you can read more reviews at azwinemonk.com
ththeennooisisee.u.uss••
thtehe arts & news NNOOISISEEarts & news ••
SnEoPvTeEmMbBeErR 2015 • 2431