Page 6 - the Noise November 2017

HIKING SOLDIER PASS TRAIL
STORY BY CINDY COLE • PHOTOS BY JON LLOYD
S edona offers a multitude of easy-access hiking trails, even amid its housing tracts. It doesn’t take long to go from “in town” to feeling far away from it all on the Sol- dier Pass Trail in West Sedona. Expect to encounter other hikers near the beginning of the trail and part of the trail intersects a jeep road, too. But it eventually leads into
the Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness where quiet and solitude await.
The trail is named Soldier Pass because it was used during the Indian Wars in the 1800s by soldiers travelling and moving supplies to and from Fort Verde in
present-day Camp Verde.
At the start of the hike, the trail goes down one side of Soldier Wash and back
the rocks and small trees lining the sides offer handholds for balance.
Once the wash is exited, the trail climbs up a slight hill through stands of Arizona
Cypress and Manzanita. Just a quarter of a mile from the parking lot, the Sphinx down to the lower elevations as the season progresses.
the largest sinkholes in the Sedona area, affectionately known as The Devil’s Kitch-
en, comes into view.
This sinkhole has collapse events that were reported in the early 1880s, in 1989
and in 1995. Geologists estimate that a small hole probably existed at the site prior
to the 1880’s collapse. In a compendium of pioneer stories of the area titled Those destination for those who want to experience the fall colors close up. But walking along the
were living in Sedona in the early 1880s and heard the crash when the spot caved
in. Mother said the dust from the cave-in filled the air all day and the sun looked like
greathspeontefworhfoallefoinlitahgegvrioewunindg.”. The area offers spectacular views of Cathedral Rock and easy hikInes1a9l8o9n,ganthoethbearnckoslloafpOseakevCerneteakl.oSnygcathmeonreoratnhdwcaollttoofnthweosoidnkthreoeles aelnolnagrgtehdetchreek showoopffentihnegirbbyraigbhotuytealltohwirds.aOndnebreilsliadnetngtowlhdosilniveladtenefalrlb.yTahtethdeetipmpeoofltshtehacotlslaeprvseas summdesrctirmibedswitimasmsoinugnhdoinlegslbikecaomdyenvaamstitreflbelacsttinbgutpwooitlhs itnhaeuntouimsena. nPdhvoitborgartaiopnhelarstw- ill wantintogbforirngaraoutrnipdoadmtoincauptetubrefforaremiet-fwadoertdh.yTphiostcooslloafpCsaethleefdtrtahleRolacrkgembirorourlidnegrithsealtfin the cresetks’sact athlme nwoarttehrseanmd onf gthset thoelespkrnaoyws onfagsoTlhdenGfroalniadgeP.iano because of its shape.
Beyond the sinkhole, another quarter mile down the trail, hikers will find the
unique and picturesque Seven Sacred Pools to the left. Millennia of monsoon rains
and runoff through a crevice in the red sandstone have carved out seven small
scoops in the rocks just deep enough to hold water. The sacredness of the area
is because at least some of the pools will hold water year-round, even in times of
drought. This provides a riparian habitat in an otherwise dry area and attracts a va-
riety of wildlife including insects, birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians. During
summer months, tadpoles can even be found swimming in the tepid water.
Be sure to look to the west to see the well-known Coffee Pot Rock. This easy to rec-
of the peaks at trail’s end. Elk and porcupines frequent the area and black bears have been
known to wander through as well.
For later fall foliage viewing, don’t forget the Verde River basin from Camp Verde to Cot-
tonwood and Clarkdale which tends to peak in late October and will often show color into
early December in some places. There are a multitude of accesses to the Verde River for
viewing the pale yellows and deep golds of the cottonwood and sycamore trees that line
rock scrambling but the more adventurous will find it worth the effort. One arch is
visible to the left along the cliffs but is not easily accessed. At the top of the trail
there are what look like caves but, once inside, the arches can be seen and explored.
Bypassing the path to the arch, the Soldier Pass Trail continues along the canyon
bottom. It then begins to climb upward along a ridge that rises to the top of Brins
Mesa. As the shade goes away, the views open up. The trail ends on a red rock shelf
that offers amazing vistas of the town of Sedona to the south and the wilderness
area and Mogollon Rim to the north.
At this point, turn around and head back the same way you came in. The total
hiking distance for the out and back hike is about 41⁄2 miles (not including the half
mile out and back hike to the arches).
There is also the option of hiking Soldier Pass in a loop. At the end of Soldier Pass
trail, connect to Brins Mesa Trail to the right heading south. Then follow the Cibola Pass and Jordan Trails back to the parking lot; the loop hike is about 5 miles.
Soldier Pass Trailhead is located in a residential neighborhood toward the end of Soldiers Pass Road in West Sedona. Take Soldiers Pass Road north to Shadow Rim Road. Turn right on Shadow Rim, staying straight until you see the trailhead parking entrance on the left. Be sure to take plenty of water and wear sturdy hiking shoes for this adventure.
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Aup the other. A wash is a dry creek bed that tends to flow only during heavy rains. rizona offers an abundance of higher elevation areas that experience colorful foliage Footing can be tricky in and out of the wash but there are stone steps carved into displays in the fall. Some of the best places to view fall foliage are found in the Se-
dona, Flagstaff and Verde Valley areas. Fall colors peak from late September through No-
vember depending on elevation. Higher elevations tend to change first and colors trickle
Rock formation comes into view. As the trail approaches the rock formation, one of Oak Creek Canyon is a popular place to see colorful fall foliage. A drive through the can-
yon will delight hikers and photographers with amazing yellows and golds of the changing
leaves of the Arizona sycamore and cottonwood trees that line the creek. The presence
of Bigtooth maples, boxelders, willows and Gambel oak trees add reds, pale yellows and
oranges to the eye-popping display. The Call of the Canyon trailhead is famous as a fall
Early Days published in 1968 by the Sedona Westerners, long-term Sedona resident creek anywhere in the West Fork area will immerse the visitor in crisp fall air and stimulate
and pioneer descendent Albert E. Thompson described the event: “My parents the senses with the sights and smells of autumn. Seeing fiery red leaves on a backdrop of
the canyon’s red rocks is a unique and spectacular experience. Colors in Oak Creek Canyon
tend to peak in late October through mid-November. LoictawteadsoshffinthinegUtphproeurgRhedheRaovcyksLmoopkeR.oHaedribnroWtehsetr,SJeimdoJnaam,Rees,dwRaosctkhCerfiorsstinogneistaonsoeteher
Around Flagstaff, fall colors begin in mid-September at higher elevations and peak by
mid- to late October. At higher elevations, aspen trees quake in the fall breezes and offer
a bright contrast to the dark greens of the Ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. The Kachina
Trail, just south of Arizona Snowbowl, is an easy to moderate hike into the lush forest. The
best fall colors are experienced in the first 21⁄2 miles or so of the 5-mile trail.
Beginning at Lockett Meadow about 15 miles north of Flagstaff, the inner Basin Trail of-
fers both colorful fall foliage and a hike right into the caldera of the now extinct volcano
that formed the San Francisco Peaks. The trail starts in the ponderosa pine forest and me-
anders into aspen groves as it climbs to the caldera. The steep slopes of the basin are lined with aspens that turn to golden hues in early fall. Hikers are rewarded with stunning views
ognize formation looks like an old style percolator coffee pot with its spout pouring
down over the town of Sedona. Look carefully at the rocks to Coffee Pot’s north, too.
Locally they are known as The Warrior, The Woman and Papoose and The Young Brave.
Continuing down the trail another three quarters of a mile, it reaches a boundary
with the Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness area. To the right of the boundary
sign is a trail that leads to the Soldier Pass Arches. It’s a bit steep and requires some the river. Prevalent willows add canary yellow to the palette.
The Verde River Greenway trail accessed from Dead Horse Ranch State Park is a wonderful
place to hike easily along the river banks and enjoy the crisp autumn air without needing
a winter coat. Mild fall temperatures in the Verde Valley mean later leaf color changes and
warmer hiking weather than in the high country. But the foliage display is just as spectacu-
lar as anywhere else in the area.
Another easy stroll along the Verde River is on the Jail Trail accessed from Old Town Cot-
tonwood. The trailhead is located next to the old jailhouse with parking in the adjacent
municipal lot. The trail begins in a riparian area filled with enormous cottonwood trees and
meanders downstream to the river’s floodplain. Walking the Jail Trail, it’s easy to forget that
it is so close to town. Bird-watchers will be delighted with the multitude of species that can
be viewed here. The trail continues into Dead Horse Ranch State Park or hikers can loop
back into Old Town Cottonwood to enjoy a cold beer or local wine post-hike.
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