Page 39 - The NOISE December 2015

with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
There is a question I get asked almost every day when I’m working the tasting room, and even on days when I’m doing “research” at other wineries: “Where can I find a pinot noir?” It’s a question I dread because it’s not a grape I’m normally fond of. California pinots are attempted
syrahs, while the ones coming from Oregon are so earthy that I might as well be eating dirt. The main problems with pinot noir in Arizona can be addressed with Miles Raymond’s soliloquy about the grape from Sideways. Most of Arizona doesn’t fall into the specific, little, tucked away corners of the world where this grape grows well. For my palate, there are only two places that make the perfect, balanced pinots that I enjoy: the homeland of this grape in Burgundy, and ... Chino Valley, Arizona.
Yes, I’m serious. The reason is that the climate and geology of Chino Valley area closely match that of this grape’s Burgundian homeland; nobody is doing a better Burgundian-style pinot in the US than Del Rio Springs, who just opened their tasting room at the edge of Chino Valley. Their 2014 Pinot Noir is a perfect example of why this region is poised at the edge of becoming the fourth major wine region in Arizona, and a perfect jumping-off point for examining three tools in a winemaker’s arsenal: clones, yeasts, and barrels. I would be remiss if I didn’t note that they also have the only vintages of phoenix (a German White) and carménère to be found in Arizona.
The pommard, martini, and several numbered clones of pinot noir are all planted at the Del Rio Springs vineyard, which is located in Paulden at the north end of Chino Valley; this wine is a blend of all of them together, providing different notes for the orchestra. Each clone of a particular grape varietal provides a different flavor aspect that, when blended, creates a complex varietal wine that can express the full potential of a vineyard. This wine was also made using two different yeasts: Infusion (1502) and 1503, which are designed to express a Burgundian-style flavor profile. The 2014 Pinot Noir was made by Rob Hammelman, at the Aridus facility in Willcox. The wine was aged for 12 months in three-year-old medium toast French oak barrels to provide that final Burgundian style feel to this wine. Different styles of oak, and different amounts of toast provide different flavor profiles.
This is a lighter-bodied and lighter-colored pinot noir; its light garnet color makes this wine appear very similar to those coming out of Côte-d’Or. On the nose, this wine is again reminiscent of a Burgundian pinot: bright red cherries and watermelon intermingle with soft frankincense, Cavendish tobacco, mushroom and forest floor, with just a hint of vanilla and cedar. After the wine opens up for a bit, the earthy notes become more intense, and notes of thyme and sage emerge from the glass.
On the palate, the resemblance to a Red Burgundy continues. Bright cherry notes are well- intermingled in this vintage, blending with flavors of marionberry, earth, tobacco, leather and vanilla. As the wine warms in the glass, a watermelon jolly rancher flavor emerges, intermingling with a bit of bergemot, black tea and mushrooms. There are very slight tannins here on the finish, which lasts for about 34 seconds.
This wine, as I mentioned last month, is a good pairing for your turkey, goose or ham holiday dinner, as the delicate, nuanced flavor profile will work well with these lighter meats. I would not pair this wine with roast beef, if you were planning to serve that on your Christmas/Yuletide table. For a vegetarian/vegan pairing, serve this wine with a mushroom stroganoff with a mustard and chive mash. As a person, this wine is the cute, quiet, geeky girl next door; possibly a French exchange student. Drink now or age for five or six years. This winery produced 60 cases of this vintage; a reserve of this wine aged on French oak for a little longer will be released next spring. You can visit Del Rio Springs’ newly opened tasting room on weekends, located in Chino Valley at 1174 South Hwy 89. DelRioSrings.com
| Cody. V. Burkett feels that it’s all a matter of a pinot, really. Follow his exploits at azwinemonk.com .
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