Page 25 - the NOISE January 2015

The
Cat’s Meow
with Cody D. Burkett illustration By Kris Pothier
In my line of work I have encountered many odd grapes, but among the oddest I have yet encountered is Blau- fränkisch; it is the most interesting of single serving friends. This grape, sometimes known also as Limberger, is often noted to have a cheesy finish, originates from the for- ests and verdant river valleys of central Europe, (especially
Austria and Hungary where it is known to create world-class vintages which can be aged long-term and have stiff tannins). Therefore, this grape seems like a very unlikely transplant to the high deserts of Willcox, AZ. But then, that is the beauti- ful thing about the Arizona wine industry at this golden age: we’re trying absolutely everything to see what will grow well here. John McLoughlin is attempting just that with this crazy grape (along with several others), and I feel he is quite successful. The Non-vintage Cat’s Meow, from Cellar 433’s Sultry Cellars line, is a blend of 70% Blaufränkisch, 12% Petit Sirah and Syrah, and 6% Mourvedre which was aged in oak for 29 months. It was bottled in April of 2013, and has just hit the tasting room. Suffice to say, this wine is really damned interesting.
This full-bodied red is an incredibly dark, rich violet/garnet color, as dark as most Cabernet Sauvignon. Truly, this wine looks like the blood of Dragoon Vineyards, if vineyards could bleed. Weirdly, every single Blaufränkisch I’ve ever had has some sort of cheesy note to the nose and palate, and this blend is no exception. In this case, a blend of blue cheese and Welsh cheddar underlies the whole of the nose. Intermingled with the cheese notes can also be found notes of sea-salt, jasmine, vanilla, and nutmeg. There’s also an incredible blackberry jamminess to the nose, intermingled with the soft scents of roasted prickly pear and watermelon; after decanting, notes of plum and sandalwood also appear.
On the palate, the Cat’s Meow has a lean acidity and a lot of firm, gripping tannins. The taste profile of this wine is deceptively simple at first. When left to breathe, however, the palate of this wine proves to be incredibly complex. Notes of clove-spiced plums, black cherry, and cassis are intermingled with the aforementioned prickly pear and blackberry jam, making for a sort of dark fruit salad character. Blue cheese once again rides into the rescue on a smooth, velvety finish, but it is deliciously intermingled with notes of black pepper, cinnamon, vanilla, and earth. The fruit, spice, and cheese are perfectly counterbalanced, making this wine taste quite fresh.
In essence, the Cat’s Meow is quite reminiscent of that gum from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory; dessert and dinner all in one sip. Fantastically well-balanced, and deceptively simple, this wine will knock your socks right off. If you’re looking for a strange and unusual red to share with friends and family who are tired of average reds, this wine is perfect. I also feel like this wine will cellar well for the next few years. I should note that I strongly recommend decanting this particular vintage.
The grapes for this wine are 100% Arizona fruit, coming from Vigneron, John McLoughlin’s Dragoon Vineyards, located on the Willcox Bench. This Blaufränkisch-based blend will pair with just about anything you can throw at it (even steak), but my favorite idea is a mixed mushroom pizza with blue cheese and walnuts. 105 cases were produced and this wine can be found exclusively at the Cellar 433 Tasting Room in Jerome, Arizona, for $52.00. A similar blend which also consists largely of this grape can be found in the Tea-Toadler, from the aforementioned winery’s Fiddlebender line, which can be found more widely distributed in stores all over Arizona.
| Cody V. Burkett is a little cheesy, too, but that’s okay, since he’s great with some wine. He’s also started a new blog
Sultry Cellars Cat’s Meow–Cellar 433
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