Page 42 - the NOISE February 2016

BY GARY KURTZ
“I don’t blame the average seventeen-year-old punk-rock kid for calling me a sellout. I understand that. And maybe when they grow up a little bit, they’ll realize there’s more things to
life than living out your rock & roll identity so righteously.”
—Kurt Cobain
If you’re reading this article, odds are pretty good you like beer — local beer in particular. Odds are also very good by now you’ve heard the news. Everyone remembers where they were when big news hit them. This news hit me on December 18. I had just returned home to the Verde Valley from a long winemaking stint in Willcox. I’d seen Star Wars the night before, so I was on a bit of an emotional high. I walked into my house and was greeted with, “Did you hear? AB-InBev just bought Four Peaks.” All I remember after that was a stunned, “Really?” followed by well placed profanity. The rest is black. I’d be willing to bet many of you felt similarly. But should we? To find out, I traveled to Prescott to visit Park Plaza Liquor Deli.
If there’s a better place to buy booze in Northern Arizona than Park Plaza Liquor Deli (henceforth referred to as PLD), I haven’t found it. Don’t think liquor store when you go to PLD, think Total Wine distilled to its essence: fine wines, top shelf spirits, well stocked cigar humidor, and most importantly, craft beer as far as the eye can see! On top of that, they also have a kick as* restaurant. Order anything on the menu — you won’t be disappointed. On Friday evenings PLD hosts beer tastings. Porters one week, IPAs the next, etc. The one I was interested in was titled “2015 Breweries that ‘Sold Out’ with a bonus pour from a brewery that sold in late 2014.” What beer captain could pass that up? When I saw the list of breweries I was shocked. Firestone Walker, Full Sail, Golden Road, Breckenridge, Lagunitas, and Ballast Point had all sold an interest in their breweries in 2015 in addition to Four Peaks. Some to AB-InBev — some elsewhere. And the brewery that sold in 2014 — Founders. Which brings me to my point ...
When beer nerds like me hear a brewery has sold, we immediately think the quality is going to plummet and everything we once loved about that beer will be a shadow of its old self. But think about it. You may not like every offering from the aforementioned breweries, I know I don’t, but when have you had anything of theirs that wasn’t true to their brand? We worry the specialty beers we loved will go out of production. But when was the last time you haven’t seen Balast Point Sculpin at your local beer purveyor? We worry the truly special high end releases will be half-as*ed and over produced. But when was the last time you tried to get your mitts on a bottle of Founders KBS? Or for that matter, Goose Island Bourbon County, which is also owned by AB-InBev? I am a formally trained scientist, so as hard as it is for me to accept this might not be the death knell I thought it would, I have to examine the facts and come to a conclusion I may not like — this may be a good thing.
For the two of you who are still reading, hear me out. According to an interview with draftmag.com, the founding partners of Four Peaks Jim Scussel, Andy Ingram and Randy Schultz stated they and all 300 of their current employees will be staying on with the company and no one is taking a pay cut. They are keeping control of their quality control, their recipes, and their restaurants (which are amazing by the way — the beer battered fries are to die for). Before the sale, the founders say they interviewed other breweries purchased by AB-InBev and asked if they were still happy. And they “overwhelmingly were,” is the answer they received. So maybe this isn’t such a bad thing. Maybe the rich, caramely, light-but-not-too-light for a Scottish ale called Kilt Lifter we’ve all come to love, willingly or not, will stay the same lovely beer — maybe it’ll even get better. One thing is for certain — it won’t be constrained to our beautiful state anymore. So buy all of the independent Kilt Lifter you can before the change takes place. Just be sure to keep some around so that you can compare it to the new Kilt Lifter. And when you do, remember my words.
| Gary Kurtz is anticipating comparing Kilt Lifter before and after.
gtkurtz@gmail.com
42 • february 2016 • the NOISE arts & news • thenoise.us
INTERVIEW