Page 37 - the NOISE March 2015

with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
You may not have heard of Tannat, but mark my words, this is a grape that will make Ari- zona wine famous. This grape originated in southwestern France, near the lofty Pyrenees Mountains, where it produces super tannic reds that sometimes need to be aged for up to
twenty years to be enjoyable. It’s also grown in Uruguay, where it produces wines far more approachable at younger ages. Here in Arizona, I’ve noticed thanks to previous encounters (mostly via Chateau Tumbleweed), that Tannat produces wines which have the approachability of Uruguayan wines, but have the aging capabilities of those from France. This is why I firmly believe this will be Arizona’s premier dark tannic grape. Tannat is one of my favorite varietals, and the possibilities of this grape here in Arizona are nowhere better represented than with the 2013 Capra, coming from D.A. Ranch, right here in the Verde Valley.
The 2013 Capra marks the second harvest of this grape from the vines at the Dancing Apache Ranch on september 21. These vines were planted in 2009 on the site by the Petzinck family at the recommendation of nikki Check, the director of the Viticulture program at Yavapai College. (You can find the first harvest from these vines on the tasting flight at Page springs Cellars cur- rently.) Her recommendation was based on the fact this varietal is rather resistant to the biting spring frosts which are a major scourge of Arizona vineyards. I have to say it was a very good recommendation; at a recent tasting with some friends, this vintage, in conjunction with other Tannat from across the world, came out on top.
Like this wine’s brethren from across the pond, this Tannat is super dark and bold in the glass; a brooding, vibrant deep garnet-mahogany purple in color. The nose of this wine opens with a dramatic salvo of chocolate-covered pomegranates, roasted prickly pear and smoky meat, intermingled with petrichor and subtle hints of vanilla. Left to sit for a few moments, or after having decanted, this vintage, a rich bouquet infused with strawberries, cherry cavendish pipe tobacco, fine leather, cured meat, allspice, cloves, and mesquite wood-smoke appears, making this wine’s collective aroma incredibly complex and interesting to contemplate.
The palate of this wine is similarly sophisticated in nature — decidedly masculine and robust, but with some delicate notes lurking within. Potent blackberry jam intermingles with the afore- mentioned clove, allspice, and tarragon to form the base of the flavor profile. After decanting, the wine gains earthy terroir notes of rich volcanic soil, calciferous earth, sandalwood, and cedar. The 2013 Capra has a deeply rich and luxurious mouth-feel with great acidity. Those intense, de- licious, and mouth-puckering gripping tannins found in this wine are decidedly true to the vari- etal characteristics. In fact, it is those tannins that gave the name to this grape in the first place.
Only 60 cases of this estate vintage were produced. It is well worth undertaking the jour- ney to obtain this singular vintage, which provides an unforgettable tasting experience. The 2013 Capra will cellar beautifully for years to come; I plan on aging a bottle of this vintage for at least five years to see how it has progressed. Tannat is admittedly a wine which may seem off-putting at first, but once you get to know it, you will come to love it. If there is a wine which could be like myself, this vintage comes decidedly closer than any other wine I have drunk in recent memory. I would highly recommend decanting this wine for between 25 minutes to an hour at this point in time, to let it open up and speak; this way you may ascertain its full, deep complexity. Pair this wine with some rich elk steaks, barbeque pork with a mole rub, or a veg- etarian cassoulet made with artichoke hearts, beets, cloves, and cannellini beans.
The winemaker for this particular vintage was Eric Glomski. A bottle of the 2013 Capra costs $35, and can be acquired only at the Dancing Apache Ranch via special appointment, or via email sales@daranch.com. I look quite forward to future vintages from D.A; this vineyard produces some amazing fruit, and I feel that the best vintages from this particular vineyard are still yet to come.
| Cody Vladimir Burkett & friends recorded a pod cast about this wine as a tasting panel compared to other tannat wines from all over the world. You can check out on his blog, azwinemonk.com
thenoise.us • the NOISE arts & news •
MARCH 2015 • 37