Page 38 - the NOISE June 2014

BY GARY KURTZ
PHOTO BY RENE R. RIVAS
Think of Sedona. Think of the red rocks. The stunning, massive vermillion fins, spires, buttes, and arches of Schnebbly Hill Sandstone that make Sedona the Mecca for new agers, hikers, climbers, and gawkers. Now, think of the world-class hiking, biking, climbing, and sightseeing
that has brought them all here. Imagine hiking across Devil’s bridge to watch the summer sunset while the Piñon pines and Junipers fill the air with their stunning, resinous aromas reminiscent of good gin and pine. Or the sweat soaked but glowing joy that comes with summiting Bear Mountain and returning safely to your vehicle at the trailhead.
Time for a beer, you think. (I knew I liked you.) And a hot dog. Or two.
The Oak Creek Brewery is nestled cozily among the red rocks and it’s not exactly easy to find. It is, however, worth the effort. You have to know how to get there. It’s not a just off the road joint that you see while driving by and think, Maybe I’ll stop for a pint and a growler. Once you find your way down the correct combination of back roads (you didn’t think I was going to tell you how to get there, did you? I can’t give you all the answers) and step inside, you are greeted by not a bar, but a hotdog stand. Do yourself a favor and order now. The wait time is a little long, but it’s worth it. Trust me. That taken care of, you pass through another door and are greeted by the bar.
Finally. Now, what to order? Since you’ve been hiking, the Pale Ale is hard to beat. You know the one. You’ve seen it in every supermarket and gas station beer cooler in the state, conveniently packaged in 12 ounce bottles and sold in reasonably priced multiples of six.
The first thing you notice about the beer is the grapefruit aromas of cascade hops that fill the air around your glass. Holy grapefruit Batman! In the glass, it is a perfectly clear amber with no real head to speak of, exactly the kind of refreshing beverage you were looking for after that hike. Once you get past the grapefruit and cascade, the malt aromas start to come through, as well as a very leafy green aroma. In the mouth, this beer comes to life, and the beer dances across your tongue with a lovely slight effervescence.
The leafy grapefruit flavors on the nose give way to a light malt profile that’s heavy on the 2-row loaf, along with lemon and a pleasant bitterness with hints of piñon resin from the hops on the backside; all with a cascading barley hue — point to what this beer is — a classic American Pale Ale, lighter in body than Sierra Nevada, but not as bitter. A wonderful, refreshing, workhorse hot weather beer. Low in alcohol so you can have a few after a hike and feel refreshed, not sloshed.
Your food arrives just as you’re ready for your second pint. Should’ve got the pitcher, you think to yourself. Despite the intense aromas of your food — this time a local bratwurst in a fresh baked bun with sauerkraut and jalapeños — causing your mouth to drool and your stomach to roar in pavlovian wonder, you head to the bar for another pint. And this is where the beer truly shines! The bready character of the malts play with the bun and tame the bite of the peppers. The piney bitterness from the hops sings with the brat and kraut and cleans your palate, readying you for the next bite!
Depending on the day, there is either live music or a drum circle serenading you from the fire pit outside. Bliss.
Satiated, you recline in your chair and reflect on the day, lingering over the last half of your pint. An afternoon well spent. May as well stretch it into the evening ...
BY ANGIE JOHNSON-SCHMIT
Harley Guy aims to make haute cuisine accessible and attractive to the average diner. Mr. Guy is pulling out all the stops to make that happen at The Barley Hound, a new restaurant in Prescott.
Mr. Guy brings an almost punk sensibility to his kitchen. It’s not that he disregards tried and true methods, but his approach is definitely geared toward creative, accessible dishes for patrons who wouldn’t normally order foie gras. This opportunity to invite everyone to the fine dining table is, in part, why he is excited about running a gastro pub.
In another break with tradition, Mr. Guy doesn’t especially like being called “chef” and foregoes chef coats in his kitchen. “I’ve worked in kitchens where you had to say ‘chef,’ but to me chef is a word I use to describe someone that inspires me ... a term of respect.” He wants each person on his kitchen staff to feel as respected as everyone else, “because the food shows that.” And the food is what Mr. Guy is all about.
Mr. Guy has some interesting ingredients planned for the gastro pub menu, including black garlic (fermented garlic) and homemade American cheese for a boerswor lamb burger. As with most passionate chefs, he gets excited about the flavors that come from truly fresh ingredients.
He is committed to using locally sourced, organic and GMO free proteins and greens, but notes that it can be challenging in Yavapai County. “Honestly, I do the best I can, but it’s difficult and expensive for a lot of the smaller farms to get the certifications,”he said. Mr. Guy is working closely with a local farm called Rabbit Run for seasonal greens as well as several other farms in the area.
The Prescott native noted that food was not exactly a big deal in his family. “It’s not like I grew up with an Italian grandma making pasta at her knee — which I would have loved,” he said. Although he liked food, it wasn’t until later that he discovered he had a passion and a real gift for cuisine.
After a self-described dark period in his life, Mr. Guy took the advice of a friend and moved and took a job in a French Caribbean restaurant on St. John in the Virgin Islands. It was in that kitchen that he completely fell in love with cooking. “I turned 30 in the Caribbean, working in an amazing restaurant ... cooking saved my soul.”
He credits this time as instrumental to helping him grow as a cook. He learned how to work in a brigaded system, culinary techniques and the benefits of micro-sourcing fresh greens and proteins. It was also during this time that he met a number of world-class chefs. Many were willing to share their knowledge and skills with him.
Mr. Guy describes his relationship with cooking as “emotional,” and he gets genuine pleasure from seeing patrons enjoy his food. “When I have a perfect service, and I send out amazing food ... I’m getting to give back finally, instead of just taking and that makes me happy,” he said.
Although Mr. Guy did not attend culinary school, he takes self-education seriously. “I go home every night and I read all kinds of cook books and I study flavor profiles,” he said. After studying the traditions behind classic dishes, he experiments with flavors and combinations. He likes to use flavor profiles in a way that not only supports expected flavors, but to coax entirely new tastes out of the dish.
There is also real creativity and artistry in his approach to food. One of his signature dishes is a dessert he concocted while working at the now defunct French fine dining restaurant, La Maison. The dish, consisting of a fig, rosemary and juniper gelato with gorgonzola en glaze and sous vide poached pears is a great example of his fearless play with flavors. “I wanted it to taste like you were walking through the forest on a snowy day,” said Mr. Guy.
That playfulness with traditional haute cuisine dishes, as well as the unexpected combinations of flavors elevates his recipes. Yet, The Barley Hound’s menu is also designed to welcome the diner who just wants a good burger and a specialty cocktail or craft beer.
To check out this passionate chef’s food firsthand, head over to 234 South Cortez Street in Prescott. The gastro pub is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5PM until 10PM. 928/237- 4506 TheBarleyHound.com
| Angie Johnson Schmit likes her food served tasty. angie@thenoise.us
the arts & news LOCALtastes thenoise.us • NOISE • JUNE 2015 • 21
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| Gary Kurtz is a connoisseur of both beer and wine. gtkutz@gmail.com the
38 • JUNE 2015 • NOISE arts & news • thenoise.us