Page 41 - the NOISE June 2014

with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
There are many styles of wines and grapes that Arizona is known for, but dessert wines are not normally among them; the summer monsoon often makes it extraordinarily difficult to accomplish such feats. But, after tasting the Sweet Lies from Pillsbury Wine Company, I’m
beginning to think perhaps we should try our hands at more of them. It was a fantastic experi- ment that went beyond all hopes and expectations, and decidedly deserves the gold medals it won at the Festival at the Farm last year. It’s a wine that’s all the more entertaining because the owner of the winery, Sam Pillsbury, normally hates this particular style of wine, having often railed against sweet wines in the past — hence the name, “Sweet Lies.” This Sauternes-style dessert white is absolutely fantastic, being my favorite dessert wine from the state thus far, and shines a bright dandelion yellow in the glass.
The Sweet Lies is a wine made from 100% Symphony; this grape is a hybrid between Grenache Blanc and Muscat of Alexandria. So far, there are only two growers of this grape in Arizona that I’m aware of, but I feel it has real unbridled potential here in our high desert landscape. The in- tense aromatics and rich palate of all the wines from this varietal I’ve seen here in Arizona are mindbogglingly unique. Aged in neutral oak, this wine was made at the Aridus Wine Facility by James Callahan; future vintages will be made on site at Pillsbury’s new winery facility, located on the Willcox Bench. The grapes were harvested at 27/28 Brix from the Pillsbury vineyard, and after fermentation the Sweet Lies has 3% residual sugar remaining. This wine was fermented with natural yeast strains native to the Willcox Bench. Both Mr. Pillsbury and Mr. Callahan feel that using native yeasts allows the wines to ferment more slowly, which creates richer, deeper, and more intense flavors, and thereby reflects the local terroir more overtly.
The nose of this wine is pretty wild; I’ve gotten notes I’ve never seen in any other wine be- fore. The sweetness of this wine can also be picked up on the nose as it does smell faintly of raw sugar. I pick up Thai spices and ginger, intermingled with intense candied starfruit and orange; it is these first two which are completely new to me for any wine. I also get creamed apricots, peaches, myrrh, floral notes of gardenia and cliff rose, with the faintest notes of vanilla. I can only imagine this will become more interesting over time. On the palate, this wine is an intense creamy experience. Flavor notes of figs intermingle with tangerine and nutmeg, with subtle hints of lavender and jasmine. There are also notes of apricot, vanilla, and ginger on the palate. Overall, it reminds me a great deal of a young Sauternes; it is pleasantly sweet, versus something over the top.
Sam Pillsbury himself recommends pairing this wine with pumpkin pie; I agree. Outside of desserts, this wine seems like it would be a fascinating pairing with sushi or Pad Thai, or even a nice aromatic pipe tobacco with an amaretto or vanilla theme. For a vegan or vegetarian pair- ing, go with a spicy curry; the spicier, the better. Drinking this wine is an intense experience
— a little bit like making out with a super-exuberant tomboy bombshell in a flower garden attached to a Thai restaurant. This Symphony knows exactly where she wants to be, and is setting forth in that direction, pulling no punches.
You can pick up a bottle of the 2013 Sweet Lies at one of Pillsbury Wine Company’s two tast- ing rooms: one located in Old Town Cottonwood, next to Fire Mountain and across from Strong- hold; the other is located on the Willcox Bench, just down the road from Bodega Pierce. 138 cases were made of the Sweet Lies, and you can pick up your bottle for $25. If you’re looking for a great dessert wine, I’d be hard-pressed to make a better recommendation. Furthermore, I feel like this wine will age quite beautifully, so if you want a dessert wine for a special occasion years in the future, this is one I would highly recommend.
| Cody V. Burkett really digs what Mr. James Callahan has done for winemaking in Arizona with native yeasts. Listen to a podcast he did with the winemaker on his blog at azwinemonk.com
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