Page 31 - the NOISE August 2014

story By
Cody V. Burkett
illus By
K. Pothier
T he coming of the monsoon to North- ern Arizona, with its booming thun-
der, looming clouds, and random freak hail storms can mean only one thing: rosé season has finally arrived.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Seri- ously, Cody? Rosé? Didn’t they go out of style with bell-bottoms? Aren’t you a little, uh, masculine, to be drinking that?”
To which my reply is a hearty “Hell no! Real men drink Rosé! Long live Rosé, it’s coming back!”
Malign my masculinity all you want, but I will maintain to my dying day that a good dry rosé is an art form, best enjoyed in the waning days of summer while watching monsoon storms sweep across the land- scape, their curtains of rain trailing behind them like the fingers of long-forgotten gods trying to find their lost car keys.
The 2013 Rose B, from Burning Tree Cellars in Old Town Cottonwood, is a wine ideally suited for such an afternoon of relaxation and watching the skies.
The Rose B vintage from 2013 is markedly different from last year’s vintage; this is the case every year, in fact. This year, it consists of a blend of various red grapes from Paso Robles (which I should note is the only wine region of California I like).
Made here in the Verde Valley, the 2013 in- carnation of this rosé is absolutely delightful, partly due to the unusual method of produc- tion for this wine; Burning Tree makes their rosé wines in a different manner than most other wineries. Instead of pressing the wine from the skins of the grapes after a few days, Mitch Levy & Cory turnbull gently bleed off the free run juice from the grapes prior to fermentation, which they feel prevents the tannins and astringency more inherent in pressed rosé wines.
This process, known as saignée, is often used to make the famous French rosés of Provence. Through this gentler method, the two gentlemen have succeeded in creating a delightfully fruity and crisp vintage, with a well rounded palate.
The wine is a beautiful, bright eye-catch- ing salmon pink in color, very pleasing to be- hold. The nose of this wine opens with a sal- vo of floral notes, particularly honeysuckle and rosehips, with a slight herbaceous note reminiscent of thyme. After a couple of mo-
ments, the scent of grapefruit and lemons is easily recognizable, intermingled with some nutmeg and tarragon notes. Hints of dark fruit also appear; particularly plum, which is unusual for a rose and more common for darker, red wines; possibly from the Malbec in this blend. I also catch a hint of petrichor on the nose, which makes it perfect for the rainy season. All in all, this wine has a decid- edly pleasing nose.
On the palate, the Tempranillo in this blend shows up with a sudden salvo of bright strawberry, before being subsumed by a delightful medley of other flavors. The Rose B is a delightful collection of fruit fla- vors; alongside the strawberry of the afore- mentioned Tempranillo, I also taste pears, peaches, and ripe red apples. There is also a slight hint of pepper and tarragon on the finish. This wine qualifies as a dry rosé, with no residual sugar. While dry, there are defi- nitely no tannins present. There is a pleas- ant acidity which makes this wine decidedly thirst-quenching. In short, the palate of this wine is quite similar to biting into a ripe, juicy pomegranate or some other fruit on a hot summer’s day, with a refreshing and fulfilling tartness. In other words, this wine is perfect for the late summer.
Consisting of 73% Petite Sirah, 11% Mal- bec, 6% Syrah, 6% Tempranillo, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2013 Rose B is a fantastic crisp, dry, and fruity rosé which is sure to delight almost any palate. Serve this wine chilled at about 55-60°F, and pair with an evening of watching the monsoon storms roll in with your friends (which is ex- actly what I did with nicole twardzik & Lisa Kren for this wine).
The Rose B is a wine which stands up well on its own. If you absolutely must pair this wine with food, I would recommend a lighter meal, like a chicken salad with a spicy prickly pear vinaigrette, which will compliment the fruity, tarty nature of this rosé. Fifty-six cases were produced of this year’s vintage of Rose B, so act fast!
| Cody Vladimir Chasen Bur- kett thinks he’s a badass, and still drinks Rosé ... A lot, actually. cody.v.burkett@gmail.com
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