Page 31 - the NOISE September 2014

story By
Cody V. Burkett
illus By
K. Pothier
While somewhat overshadowed by the other wine regions of Arizona in terms of the total amount of grapes produced, I maintain the Verde Valley is the most magi- cal setting of them all, by far. Here, the four classical elements have combined through the deep abyss of geological history to cre- ate a region for grape growing like no other in the world.
Only here has a shield volcano erupted against a wall of cliffs made from fossil sand dunes at the shore of a lost ocean, to then become entombed by an ancient lake bed, emerging later though endless millennia of erosion from wind and rain. Each of these an- cient influences can be found lurking within Page Springs’ new white field blend; their first white field blend made from Verde Valley fruit.
More specifically, it’s the first white field blend from the Dos Padres field, located across the river from the Estate vineyard. This vineyard with its unique terrain provides en- tirely different terroir and growing conditions than their estate fields. It’s a vineyard which I know well, personally; I even pounded a few posts into the rocky soil there. With crush season now in full swing, what better way to celebrate another successful harvest than by drinking the fruits of the last?
Made from 49% Malvasia Bianca, 37% Roussanne, 9% Viognier, and 5% Seyval Blanc, the 2013 Dos Padres Vineyards First Harvest – White Field Blend from Page Springs Cellars is a fascinating exploration of flavor and terroir. Poured into a glass, this light- bodied white wine is a vibrant sun kissed yellow-green color. As would be expected from a blend containing Malvasia, there are some floral and herbaceous components to the nose: basil, sage, and geranium.
However, these notes are somewhat hid- den in an ocean of grass, pear, and fresh green apples, underscored by dramatic notes of lemon, which culminates in the scent of the long-absent Pedregosa Sea with a mild tinge of sea salt and wet sand. The overall impression from the nose of this par- ticular vintage is one of a warm summer eve- ning by the sea, or a vase full of dandelions on a spring afternoon.
The palate of this wine is quite complex. It is fruit forward, with nectarine, figs and apricot at the opening. The quintessential honeydew melon taste of Arizona Malvasia is also notice- ably present. The citrus notes in the bouquet
of this wine are also repeated on the palate. Distinct herbaceous and floral notes can also be found in the taste profile of this vintage, with honeysuckle and basil predominating, along with distinct notes of grass.
While low in alcohol (only 12.5%), it is noticeable, making this wine taste a little hot. Most surprising of all the flavors on the palate is a slight hint of vanilla, which is odd, considering that this wine never touched oak. Lastly, there is a slight note of lime- stone minerality on the finish; an echo of the ancient lake which once covered the valley, making it quite refreshing.
I should point out that, while this blend is a majority Malvasia Bianca, the char- acteristics of this particular grape do not overwhelm. Characteristics from all four varietals of grapes used in this blend can be discerned. Alongside the aforementioned honeydew provided by the Malvasia lies the stereotypical pear of Roussanne, grassiness of the Viognier, and the citrus of the Seyval Blanc. Eric Glomski therefore has produced a blend which showcases everything in the Dos Padres field quite well.
The wine pairs beautifully with beer- soaked bratwurst and sauerkraut cooked on a grill, coated with stone ground mustard, making it an excellent choice for your up- coming summer cookout. (I’d like to thank Gary & Lisa Kurtz and Shannon & Michael Dean for joining me in tasting this wine this month, and especially for providing the brat- wursts.)
I would, however, recommend aging an extra year, and saving it for next summer. In short, the 2013 Dos Padres Vineyards First Harvest – White Field Blend is the perfect well- rounded white wine for the average drinker
... or would be if more than 24 cases had been produced. (If you cannot find this wine in the tasting room of Page Springs Cellars, the 2013 Vino de la Familia Blanca blend of Malva- sia and Rousanne is a delicious consolation prize which would also work well for your summer cookout.)
Suffice to say that this wine is quite deli- cious, and I look forward to further vintages coming from the Dos Padres field.
| Cody Vladimir Burkett is the self-proclaimed leader of the Cult of Malvasia Bianca. cody.v.burkett@gmail.com
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SEPTEMBER 2014 • 31