Page 34 - The Noise September 2016

SUMMER 2016 REVIEW:
lochiel
“i’m Scottish. What’s your superpower?” — ian cameron
reVieW & PhOTO by GAry KUrTZ
Rich, dark, complex, balanced, elegant, and heavy. This is less a refreshing bev- erage than a meal in a glass.
“This beer gives you energy,” remarks Ian. “Most beers put you to sleep. This one makes you want to go clean the kitchen.”
This is an odd statement at first because most beers which are well over 8% ABV generally have the same effect on me as Thanksgiving dinner has on most Americans. Or that watching golf has on just about anyone. And while I remain skeptical of this assertion, I can argue this is one of the state’s best brews, and certainly our best Scotch Ale.
This is to Scotch ales what my beloved Mutt’s Nuts is to IPAs. Caramel, whiskey (bourbon whiskey, ironically enough), and brandied fruit are huge like those deli- cious panettone breads you see in grocery stores around Christmas. The hops are there to bring balance to the force, while they don’t shine on the nose or the palate, they keep the beer from being cloying or syrupy.
Lochiel also has two other flagship brews that will be permanent staples on tap at the tasting room. If light, crisp, and clean is more your style, his ESB hits the nail on the head beautifully. If rich, chocolatey porters arouse your interest, you’ll want to taste his. But you’ll probably want to let it warm up a bit first. We poured our samples of the porter and let them sit while we drank the other two.
Now, I can hear you asking “O’ Captain, My Captain, where can I find this deli- ciousness?” Have no fear my darling dear, Lochiel Brewing plans on moving a lot of beer. When I asked Ian where he was planning on distributing, his response was simple and direct: “Everywhere.” At the beginning the staples will only be available on tap, but canning is in the works.
Speaking of taps, an onsite taproom is under construction at the brewery in Mesa (as is the rest of the brewery) with a soft opening slated for late Septem- ber and a grand opening before Thanksgiving. There’s rumor of bar stool go- kart racing at the grand opening. I wouldn’t plan on missing it. And I’m totally wearing my kilt.
It’s time to tackle a difficult subject: Why are there no good Scottish Ales made in Arizona? And for those of you asking, and I know you are, Kiltlifter does not count as a good Scottish ale. When it comes to the style, Kiltlifter’s emphasis is on the “ish” in Scottish.
Welcome to the next installment of my Tour de South. I am writing this from the dinette of my 1983 RV which is parked next to one of the vineyards I am working with this season. By the time you read this, I’ll be up to my elbows in grapes. Now, back to the beer.
Usually when I write about a brewery, I work under anonymity. I don’t throw open the doors and proclaim, “I’m a beer writer! Give me free booze!” Sorry Cody, love you Cody. I just don’t work that way. I much prefer to sit at the bar, generally alone, and drink like a normal patron. The experience is truer to what you, my dear readers, can expect when you go. However, certain situations call for my invisibility cloak to be lifted. Case in point: when the brewery is not yet open to the public and I want to get y’all the inside scoop before they are open. Oh, and also when the brewer happens to be deaf. That tends to complicate things. In the case of Lochiel Brewing, both are true. Luckily, I happen to have a tame sign language interpreter. I also happen to be married to her.
If y’all have been here a while, you have probably gathered that I like hoppy beers. A lot. That said, there’s nothing quite like a really good, malty, Scotch Ale. When properly executed, it can be a true thing of beauty. When done poorly, well ...
So when I heard there was a new brewery coming online in Mesa, owned and operated by a Scott, brewing a Scottish Ale from a 300 year old recipe I had to check it out. Anything for you, dear readers. And it does not disap- point. Owner and brewer Ian cameron has crafted the king of Scotch ales.
the Nöísẽ | THE BEST OF ARIZONA | SEPTEMBER 2016 {www.thenoise.us} • 34