Page 29 - the NOISE February 2015

The Kindred Project is one of the ex- perimental projects within the Arizona wine industry particularly intriguing. It is
the brainchild of four winemakers growing across the state, working together to make a fantastic wine. Each year four different wine- makers across the state band together and supply a few barrels of their best wines from a single vintage. The winemakers in ques- tion are Todd Bostock of Dos Cabezas, Tim White from Iniquius Cellars (who also owns the Kindred label itself), Maynard Keenan from Caduceus/Merkin, & Kent Callaghan from Callaghan winery.
According to Mr. White, his personal mo- tivation to create the Kindred project was, “to build & bridge strained, distant or non-
existent relationships, to symbolically bring Northern & Southern Arizona together in a meaningful and lasting way, so as to create a project that could evolve and grow over time and to work with people who I have enormous admiration for and am constantly inspired by.”
In essence, it’s a sort of Captain Planet- style thing — with their powers combined these Arizona winemakers can demonstrate the excellent world-class nature of Arizona Terroir. If we’re ever to demonstrate the in- herent qualities of Arizona terroir, and there- by, our wine, unique to the outside world, we must stand together as an industry.
The 2012 Kindred is a blend of Syrah, Gr- enache, Mourvedre, & Malvasia Bianca. The blend comes down to 50% Syrah, 25% Gr- enache, and 25% Mourvedre, with a minis- cule part of Malvasia Bianca as a result of a co-ferment in one of the barrels.
Mr. Keenan’s contribution was two barrels of Syrah from the Al Buhl Memorial Vineyard in Wilcox (one of which was co-fermented with Malvasia Bianca.) Mr. Callaghan’s contri- bution was one barrel of Grenache & one of Mourvedre from his estate vineyard in Elgin. Mr. Bostock’s contribution was one barrel of Syrah along with one of Mourvedre from his Cimarron Vineyard on the Willcox Bench. Lastly, Mr. White’s contribution was one bar- rel of Syrah & one of Grenache, also from the Buhl Vineyard.
Therefore this wine forms a nice blend from two out of the four growing regions in Arizona. The wine has seen oak — about 40% first & second-year French Oak, with
10% first & second-year American Oak. The remainder of the wine was aged in neutral French Oak.
with Cody V. Burkett
illustration By Kris Pothier
The nose of this wine is complex. Rich notes of cedar, myrrh, violet, vanilla & frank- incense intermingle with smoke, blackber- ries, cassis, prosciutto & pepper. Herbal notes of rosemary & sage also are present. The flo- ral notes of the slight bit of Malvasia Bianca in this blend are also noticeable; notes of jasmine & honeysuckle intermingle with the deep rich smell of the desert earth in spring- time, and of ancient seas, long evaporated & faded into the distant past.
There are intense fruity notes of cherry, raspberry & plum on the palate of the 2012 Kindred. Cedar is repeated on the palate, intermingled with much of a spice cabinet: clove, cinnamon, pepper, sage, rosemary, mint & allspice. I also taste strong notes of jasmine (probably from the Malvasia once again), intermingled with smoke and, oddly, teriyaki sauce.
There’s a slight hint of acidity, and the fin- ish is quite luxurious, with a fair amount of subtle tannins. This means it could age well, but it is quite delicious currently. I would recommend paring this wine with smoked venison ribs, or an elk steak, with a side of macaroni & cheese made from Gouda & various French herbs. A vegetarian pairing would be some stir-fried eggplant with a side of jasmine rice.
I’m quite fond of the 2012 Kindred; I feel it’s even better than last year’s vintage & is a stellar example of the Grenache-Syrah- Mourvedre blends which we do so well here in Arizona. This wine seems exceedingly comforting and yet, a little exotic at the same time; classy, but able to laugh & be goofy. It’s someone you’ve known for a long time, pos- sibly even loved, but they are now far away. Essentially, this wine is the ex whom you’re still good friends with.
According to Mr. White, the basic plan for the future of this wine is that the four origi- nal contributors will likely continue to work together & evolve the red version. Further- more, there are plans to rotate four addition- al winemakers for a white version starting with the 2013 or 2014 vintage.
You can acquire your bottle of Kindred at Four-Eight Wineworks in Clarkdale. It’s well worth it to support a movement that brings Arizona winemakers together.
| Follow Cody Vladimir Burkett’s adventures in the Arizona wine
industry at azwinemonk.com.
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